I’m just going to say it. The Tuscan Market café was one of my favorite places to hang out, and when it closed, I was frothing at the mouth like a steaming cappuccino.
I thought nothing would replace the café, with its great coffee and the delicacies of the bakery case, not to mention the gelato.
Maybe it’s taken me a while to get over the change, but I think I’m getting there. Portsmouth isn’t in short supply of great coffee, and the reimagined Market Square business now known as Napoletana Pizzeria & Bar boasts a tantalizing menu and live musical acts.
Going strong with a new menu
On yet another rainy winter night, I grabbed a seat at the bar and asked for a menu. It took some time to digest it (ahem) – the pizza selection alone has 12 offerings (and none of them are meatball or supreme).
Clearly, the owners (who also owned Tuscan Market) are eager to ensure the same quality of food while promoting a unique dining experience. The pizzas include Pollo Arrosto, with roasted chicken, brodo parmigiano, caramelized red onions, garlic confit and aragula; Prosciutto and Aragula, with fontina, prosciutto di parma, arugula, cherry tomatoes, honey balsamic vinaigrette, and parmigiano Reggiano; and Mushroom and Tartufo, with extra virgin olive oil, fontina, roasted portobello, onion and white truffle oil, among others.
While the pizzas looked interesting, I chose on this visit to sample a couple of items from the appetizer (antipasti) section. I’d made it in time for happy hour; appetizers were half off, and I was curious about their burrata and the gnocco fritto.
Exploring antipasti
I’d just tried burrata for the first time earlier in the week. At Salt, the restaurant in Wentworth-by-the-Sea, the dish comes on a bed of roasted red pepper spread with warm garlic confit, aged balsamic, basil and crostini.
Napoletana’s version is quite different. The burrata comes wrapped in prosciutto and drizzled with balsamic, topped with marinated artichokes and lemon breadcrumbs.
I love garlic, and Salt’s savory interpretation of the dish hit home. Napoletana’s was sweeter; I think I would have enjoyed it more by pairing it with a more savory appetizer.
The gnocco fritto was a new experience for me. It wasn’t the ideal companion to the burrata, but it was delicious.
The menu says this appetizer is made with fried dough, prosciutto di parma, fig jam and olive oil. The fig jam turned out to be sweet, halved figs: jam-like in flavor, but more solid in texture and consistency.
Overall, I was impressed with the quality of the food (unsurprisingly). The menu is big enough that I won’t quickly exhaust it with subsequent visits.
When the moon hits your eye, find a new drink to try, that’s Amari
For drinkers, there’s plenty to choose from. Beers include familiar names like Sam Adams and Guinness as well as local brands like Smuttynose and Earth Eagle.
There’s also a wine list and ample options for spritzes, cocktails, amari and liqueurs.
If you enjoy live music, you’ll also find ample local options at Napoletana. Redemption and Tim Theriault are among the musical performers featured at the establishment.
“Monday Night School Jam” is an open mic session that takes place weekly.
If you live in or around Portsmouth, Napoletana gives you one more reason you should never be bored or hungry. Get your caffeine and croissant fix at one of the city’s fine cafés, and indulge your love for pizza, Italian food and local music at Tuscan Market 2.0 – Napoletana Pizzeria & Bar.
Visit Napoletana Pizzeria at 14 Market Square. They open at 11:30 a.m. daily. For more information, call 570-3610 or see Napoletana Pizzeria & Bar (napoletanaportsmouth.com).
Mike Anderson is a grouchy misanthrope who depends on caffeine and pastries to write reviews about the local culinary scene, among other topics. Want to suggest a restaurant for review? Write to mike@portsmouthpulse.com.
